SOCIAL STIMULATION
Acquainting Your Pup With New Situations
A young pup is continually learning about his new environment. Every situation in
which he is placed, every person he meets, every pleasant or unpleasant incident in his
early life can have a long-lasting effect on him.
Puppies are Impressionable
One of the major discoveries concerning dog behaviour was made during this century.
Researchers found that isolating a puppy from all human contact between the third and
sixteenth weeks of age led to a fear of people. Puppies who were so isolated would
run from people if they could. If prevented from escaping, they would huddle
trembling in a corner and would even snap at people who tried to touch them.
Although this is an extreme example, it is true that young dogs must be regularly handled
by people at an early age if they are to develop into good companions. Dogs that are
uncomfortable with humans are difficult to train, often develop into “fear
biters,” relate poorly to children and may frequently run away from home.
Puppies who have very little early human contact can grow to be extremely shy dogs and
bringing a shy dog out is a difficult, painstaking process that is not always successful.
Preventing Problems
Not all breeders are willing or able to take the time to handle their puppies. In
order to overcome any shy tendencies your pup may have, carefully follow these
recommendations:
Guard against isolating your pup for prolonged periods of time. Barking, destructive digging, chewing and scratching often occur because the pup is kept outdoors by himself. Puppies are highly social animals and need social contact for proper development. In nature canine pups are never alone.
Expose him to all types of people - boys, girls, men, women, youngsters and adults. Include people with sunglasses, big hats and men with beards. Ask your friends to offer your puppy a food treat, a sure way to teach him that new people are fun.
Expose him to as many new situations as possible, but be sure he has good experiences.
Get him used to being in crowds or places where there is a lot of activity. Don’t hesitate to use a special treat to distract him if he seems fearful or hesitant.
When you take him to the veterinary clinic or groomer’s also take some special treats. Use them to distract your pup from possible discomfort or apprehension.
If your pup tends to be somewhat shy, make sure that any discipline is not excessive. It is also very important not to baby a shy pup, as this could reinforce his shyness. Encourage him to overcome shyness by going forward or holding his ground, not retreating. Praise and treat him for going forward and making progress, and prevent him from hiding out.
With your supervision, encourage him to explore his new home. The sooner he investigates everything, the more comfortable he will be. Encourage him to investigate new objects and praise him when he does. It is important to make sure his first “experience” isn’t frightening. Gradually acquaint him with steps, the vacuum cleaner, cars, baths, grooming, etc.
Teach him to go down stairs by putting him on the bottom step first. Then have a special treat available when he solves the problem. Gradually move back up the steps until he’s learned to maneuver them. This can be done over a period of days.
Make sure that the pup is gradually introduced to very loud household noises, like that of the vacuum cleaner. Use a food rewards when you do it. Quickly and repeatedly turn the machine on and off when the puppy is at a distance. Slowly accustom him to the full intensity of the sound. Many puppies develop a fear of loud noises because thunder, firecrackers or guns shots were the first loud noises they were exposed to without prior preparation.
Acquaint him/her with grooming, nail clipping and bathing by making sure his first experiences are very mild. At first, make very light strokes with the back of a brush or comb, then gradually, over a period of days, work into regular combing and brushing. Use a similar approach for bathing or nail clipping.
Begin collar training by introducing the pup to a buckle collar. Simply put the collar on before feeding and periodically throughout the day. Leave it on for about 3O minutes. Keep an eye on the pup, however, to guard against his getting caught on something. He may scratch at the collar like crazy until he becomes used to it. You can distract him with a toy or play.
When the pup is fairly comfortable with the collar, you may begin leash training. Attach the leash and let the pup drag it around, using play and toys as distractions if necessary. After he becomes accustomed to the leash, pick up the end and follow where the pup leads you. NEVER pull or jerk on the leash in order to get him to follow you! The next step is to coax him to follow you by bending down and using food rewards, if needed. This should be done for short periods of time on a daily basis until he walks easily with you. Leash and collar training should be done both inside and outdoors. Remember to never, ever drag a frightened or reluctant pup.
NEVER, use isolation as a form of discipline. Puppies should be trained to be comfortable when alone
It is not necessary to introduce your new pup to everything the first several days. Do it gradually so that he’s not overwhelmed. As he learns about new sounds and situations, he will discover that they really won’t harm him, and he will be more comfortable when he meets them again.
Puppies experience a “fear period” as part of their normal development that
occurs between 8 and 10 weeks of age. It is especially important during this time to
make sure that the puppy is gently exposed to new situations and is not frightened.
Controlling Your Puppy - Crate Training
If your puppy is properly introduced to a crate or kennel, it will look on it as a den or
safe place providing privacy, comfort and security. For you, crate training can be
useful in a variety of circumstances:
it prevents vocalization at night because the crate can be placed in your bedroom.
it prevents chewing and destructive behaviour.
it is the best method for house-training.
a crate trained dog will travel calmly and will not need to be tranquilized.
some motels and hotels require that dogs be confined to crates .
The only disadvantage of crate training is that it cannot be used if the pup is isolated
for long periods. The pup should not be left in the cage for more than 4 hours
during the day, although it is fine to leave him in it all night.
Steps in Crate Training
The crate should be large enough for the adult dog to stand up and turn around in.
The crate should be kept in a room such as the kitchen or bedroom and may be moved between rooms. It should not be left in an isolated area.
Start by throwing food treats into the crate and encourage the puppy to go after them, leave the door open so the puppy may leave the crate.
After a while, ask the puppy to sit or lie down and stay for a few seconds before giving another treat.
Sit by the crate and pat the pup while it is in the crate.
Feed meals in the crate.
Once the puppy is comfortable with the crate, close the door for short periods, starting with a few minutes and gradually increasing the time.
If the puppy barks, whines etc., startle it with a loud noise. After he has been quiet for 5 or more seconds, praise him and let him out. Do not let him out while he is making a fuss.
Praise the pup while he is in the cage and start ignoring him as he leaves the cage.
Take the puppy’s collar off when he is in his crate.
The crate is not to be used as a punishment.
HOUSETRAINING
“Praise the puppy EVERY TIME it does the RIGHT THING in the RIGHT PLACE”
Take the puppy outside after it wakes up, after eating or drinking, after it plays and after it has been confined in a crate or on a leash. This will be approximately once hourly during the day for a 7-8 week puppy.
Always go outside with the puppy - yes, at 4 am as well. Guide the puppy to area that YOU have chosen. PRAISE the puppy and give him a treat EVERY TIME he eliminates in the right place.
If you are not home, or cannot supervise the puppy for a period of time, the puppy should be confined to a crate or a small room. When the puppy is released, take him directly outside to eliminate. Don’t forget the treat!
It helps to keep the puppy on a leash if everyone is, for instance, watching TV. If the pup tries to sneak away, take him outside. Remember to give him/her a treat.
WHEN MISTAKES HAPPEN...
Once your puppy understands what is expected of him, you can reprimand him ONLY IF YOU
CATCH HIM IN THE ACT. A reprimand should never be physical punishment, a loud
NO to inform the puppy he/she has done wrong should suffice. Any discipline given
after the fact is cruel and will soon teach your puppy to eliminate when you are not
around - and that will likely be in the house. Rubbing the puppy’s nose in his
mess is of no value. Soiled areas must be treated. Clean hard surfaces with a
1:5 Dettol solution or commercial deodorizer. Clean carpets, let dry, then rub a
small amount of moth crystals into the pile, repeating weekly until the pup is trained.
Chewing
All puppies will chew if given the opportunity. We have some suggestions to help you
protect your home and belongings.
Limit Chewing
The crate is your most valuable tool in preventing destructive chewing. An
unsupervised puppy should be restricted to a damage- proof area. Your crate is
perfect for this.
Teach the Puppy What to Chew
- Don’t give the puppy something to chew that resembles something valuable. He
can’t tell the difference between your old gardening shoe and your new dress shoes.
-Give him safe items to chew. Do not give bones to your pup as they can splinter.
Give your puppy things such as nylon bones, rawhide bones and hard rubber toys.
Hollow rubber toys, “Kongs” or “Toughies” can be stuffed with kibble
to make them more appealing. Any toy or bone can be smeared with Cheez Whiz or
peanut butter to attract the puppy’s interest.
Praise the puppy when he chews on his toys.
If you catch him chewing something unacceptable, reprimand him, give him a toy and praise him if he starts chewing.
Periodically, round up his chew toys from under furniture, etc.
“Puppy-proof” your home. There is almost nothing that a puppy won’t try to chew. Put harmful objects out of the puppy’s reach.
Dominance Aggression
Like wolves, dogs are pack animals and have developed a social structure. There will
be a dominant male and a dominant female within each pack. “Dominant”
means that these animals will assume a leadership position within the pack. These
animals will eat first, will chose the best sleeping areas and enjoy all the other perks
of leadership.
Dominance is an inherited characteristic
Your puppy will consider your family to be his new pack. Many puppies will assume a
subordinate position within the family quite naturally, without any special training.
If a pup is genetically driven to be dominant however, special attention is
required to help that dog fit into the family without “running” the family.
Dominance will increase during the first 3 years of the pup’s life. While the
pup’s genetic tendency to dominate cannot be changed, we can affect how it will be
expressed. Games like tug-of-war and wrestling encourage dominance. If you
suspect that your pup is dominant, avoid these activities. Give treats as part of
your house training and obedience training. If a pup has to work for treats, he will
realize that you are in charge.
How to Spot a Dominant Dog
Dogs that are leaders within their “human packs” bark like crazy when
there’s a disturbance within their territory, and cannot be quieted by their owners.
They may growl at, nip or bite anyone who disciplines them or asks them to do
things they don’t like. They’ll most likely challenge the individual who
tries to groom them, bathe them, or clip their nails. They may also threaten
visitors who enter “their” home, growl when anyone attempts to take things away
(especially food or bones) and mark the inside of the home with urine or stool. Such
dominating dogs may only come when called if it’s to their advantage and frequently
wander away from home. Several of these behaviour patterns may indicate a dog that
has taken a leadership role in the household - a dog that hasn’t been properly
assigned its subordinate role in the “human pack”.
If you suspect that your pup is developing signs of dominance, you should discuss this
with your veterinarian so that special training can be planned.
Some signs of dominance:
Snarling and/or growling at people.
Piloerection (hair standing up on back)
Exposing teeth.
Mounting or thrusting of pelvis anywhere on your person.
Prolonged eye contact.
Resistance to touching or removal of food.
Resistance to removal of toys.
Stealing food in your presence.
Biting.
